When in Fort Rotterdam

Since I spent most of September catching up on a trip I took in August on the blog, it’s only fitting that October starts with a trip that I took in September. In nature, it was different from my Independence Weekend Trip, because it was the first time I traveled for work. And, as such, there were a lot of things I cannot talk about—yet. However, I can share the fact that we went to Makassar, South Sulawesi and stayed there for give-or-take a week. While we were mostly busy with work stuff, we got one free time on the last day, which we used to visit Fort Rotterdam. It was literally the only touristy place we visited—aside from all the culinary sites, of course—so here we go.

📷 Fujifilm X-T100 with Fujinon Aspherical Superb EBC XC 15-45mm lens

Since I spent most of September catching up on a trip I took in August on the blog, it’s only fitting that October starts with a trip that I took in September. In nature, it was different from my Independence Weekend Trip, because it was the first time I traveled for work. And, as such, there were a lot of things I cannot talk about—yet. However, I can share the fact that we went to Makassar, South Sulawesi and stayed there for give-or-take a week. While we were mostly busy with work stuff, we got one free time on the last day, which we used to visit Fort Rotterdam. It was literally the only touristy place we visited—aside from all the culinary sites, of course—so here we go.

📷 Fujifilm X-T100 with Fujinon Aspherical Superb EBC XC 15-45mm lens

A Fortress by Any Other Name

Built in 1545, Fort Rotterdam—formerly known as Fort Ujung Pandang (or Jum Pandang)—is a fortress of the Kingdoms of Gowa-Tallo heritage. It was erected by the 10th king of Gowa and was made, at first, out of clay. However, in 1634 the construction of this fortress was changed to be made out of padas stone—a solid rock with a texture similar to a crag.

At first, it took the shape of a rectangle—typical of Portuguese fortresses—but when it fell to Dutch hands in 1655, they rebuilt the fortress to look like how it is today. Well, the original structure was already heavily damaged anyway. The fortress was thenceforth under the rule of Cornelis J. Speelman until 1669. It was also around this time that the fortress changed name to Fort Rotterdam.

It turns out, this fort is only one out of 15 fortresses from the Kingdoms of Gowa-Tallo to ward off attacks from the Dutch. They span from north to south, with Fort Somba Opu serving as the main fortress. Unfortunately, only Fort Rotterdam has stayed intact, while the rest have been heavily damaged or destroyed by the Dutch.

Fort Rotterdam itself has functioned as various buildings, but the most historic would be when it was used to hold Prince Diponegoro in custody since 1833 until the day he died in 1855. It was then that the prince wrote down notes on the Javanese culture. It wasn’t until the 1970s before the building got a major makeover to serve as a museum, cultural center, stage for performance art and historical landmark.

Built in 1545, Fort Rotterdam—formerly known as Fort Ujung Pandang (or Jum Pandang)—is a fortress of the Kingdoms of Gowa-Tallo heritage. It was erected by the 10th king of Gowa and was made, at first, out of clay. However, in 1634 the construction of this fortress was changed to be made out of padas stone—a solid rock with a texture similar to a crag.

At first, it took the shape of a rectangle—typical of Portuguese fortresses—but when it fell to Dutch hands in 1655, they rebuilt the fortress to look like how it is today. Well, the original structure was already heavily damaged anyway. The fortress was thenceforth under the rule of Cornelis J. Speelman until 1669. It was also around this time that the fortress changed name to Fort Rotterdam.

It turns out, this fort is only one out of 15 fortresses from the Kingdoms of Gowa-Tallo to ward off attacks from the Dutch. They span from north to south, with Fort Somba Opu serving as the main fortress. Unfortunately, only Fort Rotterdam has stayed intact, while the rest have been heavily damaged or destroyed by the Dutch.

Fort Rotterdam itself has functioned as various buildings, but the most historic would be when it was used to hold Prince Diponegoro in custody since 1833 until the day he died in 1855. It was then that the prince wrote down notes on the Javanese culture. It wasn’t until the 1970s before the building got a major makeover to serve as a museum, cultural center, stage for performance art and historical landmark.

Today the fort consists of around 10-12 buildings—if I remember correctly—with two buildings serving as Museum Galigo. You can enter the area for free, although you may be hinted on to give a ‘donation.’ Personally, I paid the guard IDR 10k, but legally you shouldn’t have to. As you enter the area, you will be greeted with the vastness of the area. To your right and left are the museum buildings standing across from each other. Along your line, on your left, you will find the office to Makassar’s Centre for Culture. By the entrance, on the top, you will be able to see the ruins of Bastion Bone as it might have been destroyed during the Dutch attack.

We entered the museum. The tickets costed IDR 5k each—but it was legit this time. Inside, the place looked pretty well looked after. We saw a foreigner being accompanied by a guide who spoke fluent Dutch. It was very impressive! We were offered a guide, but we declined as we knew it was going to cost more than we could probably afford. Also, we hadn’t got much time to spend there. The museum itself was filled with so many trinkets from the royal family—including old-time money made out of what looked like dishcloth, no offense. The stairwell leading to the upstairs was pretty creaky—one of the floorboards even fell through. Needless to say, it was an interesting experience.

Hand-me-down cap + pants // thrifted jacket // Taman Safari t-shirt // old shoes // Exsport backpack //
photos of me by Adel

Today the fort consists of around 10-12 buildings—if I remember correctly—with two buildings serving as Museum Galigo. You can enter the area for free, although you may be hinted on to give a ‘donation.’ Personally, I paid the guard IDR 10k, but legally you shouldn’t have to. As you enter the area, you will be greeted with the vastness of the area. To your right and left are the museum buildings standing across from each other. Along your line, on your left, you will find the office to Makassar’s Centre for Culture. By the entrance, on the top, you will be able to see the ruins of Bastion Bone as it might have been destroyed during the Dutch attack.

We entered the museum. The tickets costed IDR 5k each—but it was legit this time. Inside, the place looked pretty well looked after. We saw a foreigner being accompanied by a guide who spoke fluent Dutch. It was very impressive! We were offered a guide, but we declined as we knew it was going to cost more than we could probably afford. Also, we hadn’t got much time to spend there. The museum itself was filled with so many trinkets from the royal family—including old-time money made out of what looked like dishcloth, no offense. The stairwell leading to the upstairs was pretty creaky—one of the floorboards even fell through. Needless to say, it was an interesting experience.

Hand-me-down cap + pants // thrifted jacket // Taman Safari t-shirt // old shoes // Exsport backpack //
photos of me by Adel

A New City, A New Island

Makassar, to me, is a somewhat special place. Back when my Mom was still alive, she used to visit this place a lot for work trips. How amazing that 15 years after her passing, I would also be here for a work trip! I can tell why she liked going back here a lot. The people here are so, so kind, although they do speak in such an intimidating tone. They are also often quick with the jokes.

Also, of course, the food here is amazing. They have such different taste to people in Java, but in a way that even my tongue can still accept. My favourite food experience while we were here was Pallubasa Serigala—that was the best!

While Indonesia has over 17,000 islands  strewn across its archipelago and I have lived here practically my whole life, I am ashamed to admit that I’d only ever been to the islands of Java, Bali and Madura. I’ve never been to Sumatra—which is literally across the pond from where I live—let alone somewhere as far away as Sulawesi. For years I’ve wanted to visit a new island and even put it in my 30 Before 30 List—which I later on changed because I was pessimistic that it would happen. And yet here we are. Trust me, I’ve been pinching myself ever since.

While Indonesia has over 17,000 islands  strewn across its archipelago and I have lived here practically my whole life, I am ashamed to admit that I’d only ever been to the islands of Java, Bali and Madura. I’ve never been to Sumatra—which is literally across the pond from where I live—let alone somewhere as far away as Sulawesi. For years I’ve wanted to visit a new island and even put it in my 30 Before 30 List—which I later on changed because I was pessimistic that it would happen. And yet here we are. Trust me, I’ve been pinching myself ever since.

Makassar, to me, is a somewhat special place. Back when my Mom was still alive, she used to visit this place a lot for work trips. How amazing that 15 years after her passing, I would also be here for a work trip! I can tell why she liked going back here a lot. The people here are so, so kind, although they do speak in such an intimidating tone. They are also often quick with the jokes.

Also, of course, the food here is amazing. They have such different taste to people in Java, but in a way that even my tongue can still accept. My favourite food experience while we were here was Pallubasa Serigala—that was the best!

Last but not least, I was so grateful to be able to meet and get to know new people. One of the people I was mostly glad to have met is Adel a.k.a. Maghfirare. I have known her online from afar for years—I love her comic strips and often find them really funny and mood-boosting. It was so unexpected that I finally got to meet and be friends with her. She may be young—only 23!—yet with an old soul that makes her a lot more mature than people expect her to be. We talked a lot with each other, sharing stories and banana fritters (lol). It’s a surprise to me that we actually have a lot in common—though it really shouldn’t have been.

We had a great time bonding, since we spent so much time together. She was even kind enough to indulge me at Fort Rotterdam and took my photos for this post—thank you so much! Can’t wait to hang out again sometime soon.

Do stick around to find out what kind of project we’re brewing together!

thanks for reading

Last but not least, I was so grateful to be able to meet and get to know new people. One of the people I was mostly glad to have met is Adel a.k.a. Maghfirare. I have known her online from afar for years—I love her comic strips and often find them really funny and mood-boosting. It was so unexpected that I finally got to meet and be friends with her. She may be young—only 23!—yet with an old soul that makes her a lot more mature than people expect her to be. We talked a lot with each other, sharing stories and banana fritters (lol). It’s a surprise to me that we actually have a lot in common—though it really shouldn’t have been.

We had a great time bonding, since we spent so much time together. She was even kind enough to indulge me at Fort Rotterdam and took my photos for this post—thank you so much! Can’t wait to hang out again sometime soon.

Do stick around to find out what kind of project we’re brewing together!

thanks for reading