After 5 years of not visiting Surabaya properly, my sister and I finally returned last week! Eep! The last time we were in the city, it was a gloomy occasion—our beloved grandmother just recently passed away. Our absence for the past half decade should be a testament of our love for her, if nothing else. We initially wanted to come visit around Eid holiday, however since it was high season, the price surged like crazy and tickets were selling out fast. Needless to say, we decided not to go then, but were determined to do so at a later time this year. We took advantage of the long weekend last week—due to Pancasila Day (don’t ask!)—and flew there. Here’s a little peek at what we got up to when we were there.
📷 Fujifilm X-T100 with Fujinon Aspherical Superb EBC XC 15-45mm lens
After 5 years of not visiting Surabaya properly, my sister and I finally returned last week! Eep! The last time we were in the city, it was a gloomy occasion—our beloved grandmother just recently passed away. Our absence for the past half decade should be a testament of our love for her, if nothing else. We initially wanted to come visit around Eid holiday, however since it was high season, the price surged like crazy and tickets were selling out fast. Needless to say, we decided not to go then, but were determined to do so at a later time this year. We took advantage of the long weekend last week—due to Pancasila Day (don’t ask!)—and flew there. Here’s a little peek at what we got up to when we were there.
New Face to an Old Street
One of the places we loved to frequent on our brief time in Surabaya was Tunjungan Street. If you were here 5 years ago, you might remember how the historic street looked back then. However, when we went there, we were surprised to find the street newly revamped from end to end. Now, culinary businesses line the streets, from coffee shops and gelateria to middle-eastern cuisines and local delicacies. In fact, some of the buildings we captured last time already got a makeover by now.
Out of all these snazzy, new places, we kept coming back to one coffee shop—in the course of two days, we paid this place a visit three times—called Toko Kopi Padma. My sister got her eye on the menu and prices, while I was attracted to the shop’s interior and exterior design. If you ask me what this building used to be, I wouldn’t be able to tell you—it has now been almost completely renovated and renewed, leaving barely any trace of the building it used to be. I daresay they only left the retro window at the façade intact.
One of the places we loved to frequent on our brief time in Surabaya was Tunjungan Street. If you were here 5 years ago, you might remember how the historic street looked back then. However, when we went there, we were surprised to find the street newly revamped from end to end. Now, culinary businesses line the streets, from coffee shops and gelateria to middle-eastern cuisines and local delicacies. In fact, some of the buildings we captured last time already got a makeover by now.
Out of all these snazzy, new places, we kept coming back to one coffee shop—in the course of two days, we paid this place a visit three times—called Toko Kopi Padma. My sister got her eye on the menu and prices, while I was attracted to the shop’s interior and exterior design. If you ask me what this building used to be, I wouldn’t be able to tell you—it has now been almost completely renovated and renewed, leaving barely any trace of the building it used to be. I daresay they only left the retro window at the façade intact.
As we arrived at the location, the first thing that got us—well, me—smitten was the vintage window and door at the façade, which was so perfect with the metal railings and ‘closed’ sign as well. Don’t be confused! The actual entrance is located on the side of it—wide open red metal gates with a store sign placed in front of it. The vibe feels a whole lot like an Italian villa entrance, especially with all the peeling-off brick walls. Then you walk into the café itself and will find a cozy inner sanctum, with an exposed-brick wall at the counter and wood-dominated furniture. The one-side rounded doors and windows attract me the most, to be honest. One such doors leads to an al fresco area at the back, which is also very cozy and fresh—perfect balance between shade and exposure to sunlight.
Between me and my sister, we tried out 4 drink menus during our three visits to this place. There’s the Es Kopi Aren which we both tried—my sister twice even. Personally, I found the coffee to be quite pleasant, although if you’re looking for a strong coffee drink, this really ain’t it. It wasn’t too sweet, though—I really enjoyed it. Other than that, my sister has also tried the Yuzu Lemonade Yakult, which she liked very much—and I’d have to agree! It was really refreshing with a nice kick at the end. As for me, I’ve also tried their Honey Lemonade and Ice Lemon Tea. I love them both! Again, really fresh with a good balance of sweetness. If I had to choose, though, I’d opt for the Lemon Tea.
Thrifted top + jeans // gifted tote bag + shoes // photos of me by Akita
As we arrived at the location, the first thing that got us—well, me—smitten was the vintage window and door at the façade, which was so perfect with the metal railings and ‘closed’ sign as well. Don’t be confused! The actual entrance is located on the side of it—wide open red metal gates with a store sign placed in front of it. The vibe feels a whole lot like an Italian villa entrance, especially with all the peeling-off brick walls. Then you walk into the café itself and will find a cozy inner sanctum, with an exposed-brick wall at the counter and wood-dominated furniture. The one-side rounded doors and windows attract me the most, to be honest. One such doors leads to an al fresco area at the back, which is also very cozy and fresh—perfect balance between shade and exposure to sunlight.
Between me and my sister, we tried out 4 drink menus during our three visits to this place. There’s the Es Kopi Aren which we both tried—my sister twice even. Personally, I found the coffee to be quite pleasant, although if you’re looking for a strong coffee drink, this really ain’t it. It wasn’t too sweet, though—I really enjoyed it. Other than that, my sister has also tried the Yuzu Lemonade Yakult, which she liked very much—and I’d have to agree! It was really refreshing with a nice kick at the end. As for me, I’ve also tried their Honey Lemonade and Ice Lemon Tea. I love them both! Again, really fresh with a good balance of sweetness. If I had to choose, though, I’d opt for the Lemon Tea.
Thrifted top + jeans // gifted tote bag + shoes // photos of me by Akita
Breathe Life into the Dead
The last time my sister and I were here, Tunjungan Street was as good as dead. We tried to remember if it was simply because of the Eid holiday timing, or if the area was, indeed, almost completely abandoned—we believe it’s the latter, though. I don’t know whose idea it was to breathe new life to this historic area of the city, but good job! Projects like this have been popping up a lot around the archipelago, especially in big cities like Jakarta and Surabaya—it’s really not unlike Pos Bloc in Jakarta, if you remember—and it’s been so fascinating to see these old buildings serve a new purpose.
That being said, it’s kind of sad to see them go into a more modern architecture—like in the photos above. I get it, the area looks so much edgier now after the decays of these colonial buildings have been torn down. Personally, though, I would have liked to see some form of the buildings preserved—kudos to Toko Kopi Padma for keeping the “Tjantik” relief on the façade and side of their building (pictured below). Also kudos to the other businesses for at least coming up with retro looks for their outlets—like the 7 Stars Asian Delight restaurant above—to keep the vintage look of the area intact.
The last time my sister and I were here, Tunjungan Street was as good as dead. We tried to remember if it was simply because of the Eid holiday timing, or if the area was, indeed, almost completely abandoned—we believe it’s the latter, though. I don’t know whose idea it was to breathe new life to this historic area of the city, but good job! Projects like this have been popping up a lot around the archipelago, especially in big cities like Jakarta and Surabaya—it’s really not unlike Pos Bloc in Jakarta, if you remember—and it’s been so fascinating to see these old buildings serve a new purpose.
That being said, it’s kind of sad to see them go into a more modern architecture—like in the photos above. I get it, the area looks so much edgier now after the decays of these colonial buildings have been torn down. Personally, though, I would have liked to see some form of the buildings preserved—kudos to Toko Kopi Padma for keeping the “Tjantik” relief on the façade and side of their building (pictured below). Also kudos to the other businesses for at least coming up with retro looks for their outlets—like the 7 Stars Asian Delight restaurant above—to keep the vintage look of the area intact.
Ever since my sister and I walked this street from end to end 5 years ago, I fell in love with Tunjungan Street and it was easily one of my favourite areas in Surabaya. This is the one place I could satisfactorily explore without spending a penny, since I could simply walk it on foot and would find so many lovely gems already. The vibe was definitely up my alley too—old, decaying buildings fixed up with retro looks? Yes, please! Now that it has gotten a makeover, the street has become a hotspot for people to hang out and loiter about. The vibe was really pleasant, to be honest, so much so that I decided to spend just one afternoon building and people watching—results of which you could see right here. During which, a number of people asked if I wouldn’t mind being photographed—of course I said it was okay, and they sent me the photos afterwards.
Other than this—and one other post—though, we didn’t get to do much aside from seeing our extended family, especially our grandfather. It was the sole reason for us coming all the way out here, after all. Also, we stayed here shorter than usual, so we didn’t get to spend too much time idly. I hope you’ll be content with only the short story of our time by ourselves out here.
Stay tuned for the next story from Surabaya!
Ever since my sister and I walked this street from end to end 5 years ago, I fell in love with Tunjungan Street and it was easily one of my favourite areas in Surabaya. This is the one place I could satisfactorily explore without spending a penny, since I could simply walk it on foot and would find so many lovely gems already. The vibe was definitely up my alley too—old, decaying buildings fixed up with retro looks? Yes, please! Now that it has gotten a makeover, the street has become a hotspot for people to hang out and loiter about. The vibe was really pleasant, to be honest, so much so that I decided to spend just one afternoon building and people watching—results of which you could see right here. During which, a number of people asked if I wouldn’t mind being photographed—of course I said it was okay, and they sent me the photos afterwards.
Other than this—and one other post—though, we didn’t get to do much aside from seeing our extended family, especially our grandfather. It was the sole reason for us coming all the way out here, after all. Also, we stayed here shorter than usual, so we didn’t get to spend too much time idly. I hope you’ll be content with only the short story of our time by ourselves out here.
Stay tuned for the next story from Surabaya!