#SoloLetsGo: Keraton Hopping

I can’t believe we’ve arrived on the very last day of the Independence Weekend Trip. It feels like I’ve unpacked this trip twice—once when I just arrived home and now when I’ve gone over the memories thoroughly. Can’t help but to feel absolutely sentimental about it, I’m just not ready to let go of it yet. A memorable trip it was and one that made me want to move to Solo. So, you know. Well, at least if it has to go, at least it will go out with a bang.

The night prior to our last day we already planned out exactly what we would do and when. We started out pretty early—true to this habit until the end—to grab Nasi Pecel for lunch at a nearby hidden gem. It was Agung’s most favourite discovery! Afterwards, we quickly hit Pasar Gede to buy souvenirs for the folks at home and stopped by for some coffee and Babi Pikul. I felt really sentimental afterwards since we headed back to the hotel, packed our bags and checked out. It felt like the beginning of the end. But then we saved the best for last: visiting keratons/palaces in Solo, two in particular—Puro Mangkunegaran & Keraton Hadiningrat. This is the story of our experience.

I can’t believe we’ve arrived on the very last day of the Independence Weekend Trip. It feels like I’ve unpacked this trip twice—once when I just arrived home and now when I’ve gone over the memories thoroughly. Can’t help but to feel absolutely sentimental about it, I’m just not ready to let go of it yet. A memorable trip it was and one that made me want to move to Solo. So, you know. Well, at least if it has to go, at least it will go out with a bang.

The night prior to our last day we already planned out exactly what we would do and when. We started out pretty early—true to this habit until the end—to grab Nasi Pecel for lunch at a nearby hidden gem. It was Agung’s most favourite discovery! Afterwards, we quickly hit Pasar Gede to buy souvenirs for the folks at home and stopped by for some coffee and Babi Pikul. I felt really sentimental afterwards since we headed back to the hotel, packed our bags and checked out. It felt like the beginning of the end. But then we saved the best for last: visiting keratons/palaces in Solo, two in particular—Puro Mangkunegaran & Keraton Hadiningrat. This is the story of our experience.

Palace 1: Puro Mangkunegaran

Built in 1757, Puro Mangkunegaran is the place of dwelling for the royal family of Mangkunegaran Sultanate. To this day, it remains the royal family’s home—with KGPAA Mangkunegoro X being the recently crowned majesty at only 25 years old. To enter this place, you must buy a ticket that costs IDR 20.000,- per person—which also provides a dedicated guide for you and your group while you explore the palace area.

To me, this place seems to be divided into three accessible areas. The first one is the plaza or foyer, where sacred rituals—such as spiritual dancing and gamelan orchestra—are performed. According to our guide, the public are welcome to attend and witness such occasions at 9-12 in the morning. Sadly, we just missed our chance.

Our guide was very thorough in telling us the history of the palace’s architecture. There were so many details to pay attention to and he pointed out each of them, leaving us in complete awe.

One of the most prominent and memorable details of this area is the distinct robin’s-egg blue of the foyer area—which was first introduced by Mangkunegara VI in the 1910s, long before it was in fashion globally. It creates a unique and appealing look about the palace.

Other than that, the ceiling at the center of the foyer is also iconic. Hand painted around the 1910s as well, it depicts particular batik patterns that symbolise fire in dynamic shapes. I don’t actually remember much, so I might’ve gotten this wrong. Our guide showed us the best angle to take selfies with it as a backdrop.

Built in 1757, Puro Mangkunegaran is the place of dwelling for the royal family of Mangkunegaran Sultanate. To this day, it remains the royal family’s home—with KGPAA Mangkunegoro X being the recently crowned majesty at only 25 years old. To enter this place, you must buy a ticket that costs IDR 20.000,- per person—which also provides a dedicated guide for you and your group while you explore the palace area.

To me, this place seems to be divided into three accessible areas. The first one is the plaza or foyer, where sacred rituals—such as spiritual dancing and gamelan orchestra—are performed. According to our guide, the public are welcome to attend and witness such occasions at 9-12 in the morning. Sadly, we just missed our chance.

Our guide was very thorough in telling us the history of the palace’s architecture. There were so many details to pay attention to and he pointed out each of them, leaving us in complete awe.

One of the most prominent and memorable details of this area is the distinct robin’s-egg blue of the foyer area—which was first introduced by Mangkunegara VI in the 1910s, long before it was in fashion globally. It creates a unique and appealing look about the palace.

Other than that, the ceiling at the center of the foyer is also iconic. Hand painted around the 1910s as well, it depicts particular batik patterns that symbolise fire in dynamic shapes. I don’t actually remember much, so I might’ve gotten this wrong. Our guide showed us the best angle to take selfies with it as a backdrop.

Then we moved on to the second accessible area: the room of sacred items. This is the most impressive room and most rich in history, yet we weren’t allowed to take any photos there. Though our guide didn’t actually go over the reason why, but we suspected it’s because the place is seeped in holy spirits—the Javanese kind. It’s too bad that I cannot show you any of the items in there, but let me paint you a picture and give your a written tour.

The room was very spacious. As you walk in, the first thing you see is this bed at the other end of the room, draped in velvet curtains in the colour of jade green. It is the bed of Dewi Sri, the goddess of fertility. When it comes time to planting new crops, offerings to her are made on this bed. Our guide even told stories of how people who feel they are spiritually powerful have challenged this bed before, but was thrown back to the wall by sheer force of the spirits. I’m not spiritually gifted in any way, but I’d say best to show the spirits and gods some respect.

Scattered around the rooms are all sorts of cabinets, filled with little trinkets that hold some spiritual value. There were keris, swords, coins, Buddha figurines, cutlery, tea sets and even whole coconuts—which are believed to be sacred due to a distinct physical feature that I can no longer remember. What was most intriguing was the lock the queens have for the kings’ private parts when they are apart—and vice versa. It was very popular among married women when they come to visit, said our guide.

Hand-me-down t-shirt // thrifted skirt + jacket // rattan purse from the antique market //
Dr. Martens vegan boots // photos of me by Agung

Then we moved on to the second accessible area: the room of sacred items. This is the most impressive room and most rich in history, yet we weren’t allowed to take any photos there. Though our guide didn’t actually go over the reason why, but we suspected it’s because the place is seeped in holy spirits—the Javanese kind. It’s too bad that I cannot show you any of the items in there, but let me paint you a picture and give your a written tour.

The room was very spacious. As you walk in, the first thing you see is this bed at the other end of the room, draped in velvet curtains in the colour of jade green. It is the bed of Dewi Sri, the goddess of fertility. When it comes time to planting new crops, offerings to her are made on this bed. Our guide even told stories of how people who feel they are spiritually powerful have challenged this bed before, but was thrown back to the wall by sheer force of the spirits. I’m not spiritually gifted in any way, but I’d say best to show the spirits and gods some respect.

Scattered around the rooms are all sorts of cabinets, filled with little trinkets that hold some spiritual value. There were keris, swords, coins, Buddha figurines, cutlery, tea sets and even whole coconuts—which are believed to be sacred due to a distinct physical feature that I can no longer remember. What was most intriguing was the lock the queens have for the kings’ private parts when they are apart—and vice versa. It was very popular among married women when they come to visit, said our guide.

Hand-me-down t-shirt // thrifted skirt + jacket // rattan purse from the antique market //
Dr. Martens vegan boots // photos of me by Agung

There were two rooms of note in this area. The first one being the royal salon where the royal family often receive notable guests, such as those who come for diplomatic visits and the local government. You can see this room in the featured photo of this blog above. Our guide was kind enough to offer to take that photo, by the way. Man, these palace guides are always so good at photography.

Fun fact about this room: it cannot be left with the door closed for too long. It has very little ventilations, so it will most likely be very humid when it is closed—which is dangerous for the paint and wooden structure. Needless to say, the door usually remains open.

The second room is the royal dining room—which I believe is only in use for special occasions. It is filled with gorgeous artworks, such a Javanese glass mosaic—so cute!—, a relief carved on ivory and Balinese painting tablet.

Finally we’ve arrived at the third and final accessible area: the guest chambers—and we could take photos again. As we came out of the previous area, we came into a little garden in the middle of the complex. This area, apparently, serves as some kind of living room where the royal family receives their guests and loyal subjects. Their living quarters used to be here as well, but it has of course been moved, since the palace is open to public visitors—wouldn’t want their privacy getting pried upon.

Here our guide showed us a particular tree with a unique flower. The flower is shaped not unlike a tulip–or at least that’s what it looks like before it blooms—but with a distinct smell of melon. That was very intriguing! The guide says the tree does not bear fruit, only flowers, yet somehow it has such a strong smell of a known fruit. I didn’t ask whether we could eat the flower, though—seems like such a waste.

There were two rooms of note in this area. The first one being the royal salon where the royal family often receive notable guests, such as those who come for diplomatic visits and the local government. You can see this room in the featured photo of this blog above. Our guide was kind enough to offer to take that photo, by the way. Man, these palace guides are always so good at photography.

Fun fact about this room: it cannot be left with the door closed for too long. It has very little ventilations, so it will most likely be very humid when it is closed—which is dangerous for the paint and wooden structure. Needless to say, the door usually remains open.

The second room is the royal dining room—which I believe is only in use for special occasions. It is filled with gorgeous artworks, such a Javanese glass mosaic—so cute!—, a relief carved on ivory and Balinese painting tablet.

Finally we’ve arrived at the third and final accessible area: the guest chambers—and we could take photos again. As we came out of the previous area, we came into a little garden in the middle of the complex. This area, apparently, serves as some kind of living room where the royal family receives their guests and loyal subjects. Their living quarters used to be here as well, but it has of course been moved, since the palace is open to public visitors—wouldn’t want their privacy getting pried upon.

Here our guide showed us a particular tree with a unique flower. The flower is shaped not unlike a tulip–or at least that’s what it looks like before it blooms—but with a distinct smell of melon. That was very intriguing! The guide says the tree does not bear fruit, only flowers, yet somehow it has such a strong smell of a known fruit. I didn’t ask whether we could eat the flower, though—seems like such a waste.

All in all, we really enjoyed our experience at Puro Mangkunegaran. It was really so much fun learning about all the stories—although I may not remember all the details. Our guide, Mas Dodi, was such a joyful character. He made numerous jokes that had made both of us laugh—although he was also very opinionated politically and, being the loyal subject to the Sultanate, he was understandably biased towards the royal family. He shared not only stories of the palace and the royal family, though. He also told stories of previous visitors he had the pleasure of guiding—a lot of whom had developed further friendships with him. I can see why, he definitely felt very warm and easy to befriend. With that good impression, we headed for the second palace.

All in all, we really enjoyed our experience at Puro Mangkunegaran. It was really so much fun learning about all the stories—although I may not remember all the details. Our guide, Mas Dodi, was such a joyful character. He made numerous jokes that had made both of us laugh—although he was also very opinionated politically and, being the loyal subject to the Sultanate, he was understandably biased towards the royal family. He shared not only stories of the palace and the royal family, though. He also told stories of previous visitors he had the pleasure of guiding—a lot of whom had developed further friendships with him. I can see why, he definitely felt very warm and easy to befriend. With that good impression, we headed for the second palace.

Palace 2: Keraton Hadiningrat

If you search up keraton in Surakarta or Solo, this place may be the result that you get. Its sky blue curlicue-laden wooden façade is so iconic, especially with the hat-shaped watch tower at its back. Honestly, I was more excited to come here at first too. Unfortunately, by the time we arrived, the palace was closed for public so we could only explore the museum. And it was truly an underwhelming experience. We weren’t provided a guide—and wasn’t sure whether we could ask for one or if that would cost extra—which resulted in us just walking through the museum without getting the full story of all the artifacts we were looking at.

We did see a lot of things, though. There were dioramas and traditional—as well as modern—reliefs depicting significant scenes from the palace’s history or sacred rituals from local traditions. There were all types of royal carriages—from the ones that are carried by the loyal subjects and those from later times being pulled by horses, divided according to each one’s purpose. Each of this is perhaps deemed sacred, as you can see offerings being made to each item. Sadly, while the items themselves may be interesting, they look very little cared for—they were mostly dusty and some of them seemed to not be displayed well.

If you search up keraton in Surakarta or Solo, this place may be the result that you get. Its sky blue curlicue-laden wooden façade is so iconic, especially with the hat-shaped watch tower at its back. Honestly, I was more excited to come here at first too. Unfortunately, by the time we arrived, the palace was closed for public so we could only explore the museum. And it was truly an underwhelming experience. We weren’t provided a guide—and wasn’t sure whether we could ask for one or if that would cost extra—which resulted in us just walking through the museum without getting the full story of all the artifacts we were looking at.

We did see a lot of things, though. There were dioramas and traditional—as well as modern—reliefs depicting significant scenes from the palace’s history or sacred rituals from local traditions. There were all types of royal carriages—from the ones that are carried by the loyal subjects and those from later times being pulled by horses, divided according to each one’s purpose. Each of this is perhaps deemed sacred, as you can see offerings being made to each item. Sadly, while the items themselves may be interesting, they look very little cared for—they were mostly dusty and some of them seemed to not be displayed well.

The place itself was actually pretty spacious. The building goes around a small garden in the middle with numerous doors lining each side of it. The colour blue here is so distinct and pops up everywhere. I swear there must be a story there, but without a guide, who were we to know.

At the center of the complex, the garden itself houses a few sacred and historical items. There are European statues at one end. I believe it was a gift from some European government or so, but I cannot be sure. At the center, you will find the massive trunk of a holy teak tree called Kyai Jati Dhanalaya. While Kyai is often used to refer to Islamic clerics, here I believe it is only to show the item’s sacred nature.

At the far end of the garden there is a small roofed up well. We saw many people gather at this spot and, at first, it intrigued Agung. As we approached, we saw people collecting water there and we backed away, not really feeling it if we had to drink the water from the well—with the danger of covid and who knows what else, you know.

Apparently, the well also known as Sumur Sanga (Nine Wells) is considered sacred. It is believed that if one was to wash their face here, they will get blessings or even lasting youth. Whether or not that is true is, obviously, still up for debate. No wonder people crowded over this place before.

The place itself was actually pretty spacious. The building goes around a small garden in the middle with numerous doors lining each side of it. The colour blue here is so distinct and pops up everywhere. I swear there must be a story there, but without a guide, who were we to know.

At the center of the complex, the garden itself houses a few sacred and historical items. There are European statues at one end. I believe it was a gift from some European government or so, but I cannot be sure. At the center, you will find the massive trunk of a holy teak tree called Kyai Jati Dhanalaya. While Kyai is often used to refer to Islamic clerics, here I believe it is only to show the item’s sacred nature.

At the far end of the garden there is a small roofed up well. We saw many people gather at this spot and, at first, it intrigued Agung. As we approached, we saw people collecting water there and we backed away, not really feeling it if we had to drink the water from the well—with the danger of covid and who knows what else, you know.

Apparently, the well also known as Sumur Sanga (Nine Wells) is considered sacred. It is believed that if one was to wash their face here, they will get blessings or even lasting youth. Whether or not that is true is, obviously, still up for debate. No wonder people crowded over this place before.

While I wouldn’t say we hated our time at Keraton Hadiningrat, we definitely felt it could’ve gone a lot better. What was most disappointing, I suppose, is the lack of information from the ticket booth. Nobody offered us any guides, so we didn’t know if this option was even available. It was only as I’m writing this just now that I found out that you had to pay extra for one—but you’ll also get the full picture of the museum and palace. Other than that, the feel of this palace is so different from the first one. There were a lot of young employees—who I assume are interning uni students—who did practically nothing but fool around and laugh out loud. Can’t say it didn’t ruin the mood of the place.

With our trip pretty much wrapped up, we had a quick lunch near the hotel to pick up our bags. Afterwards, we went straight to the station as our time of departure is closing in. Our train departed at 6 PM and we arrived the next day at 2 AM. It was such a memorable trip and I felt the brunt of it for at least a week afterwards. A part of me wanted to move to Solo so badly, but I don’t know where to start. So here I am, reliving it all through these posts and—for more detailed accounts—travel journals. Now the trip has truly ended. Can’t say I’m not sad about it, but until next time Solo!

Stay tuned for more adventures that I’ll be embarking on soon!

thanks for reading

While I wouldn’t say we hated our time at Keraton Hadiningrat, we definitely felt it could’ve gone a lot better. What was most disappointing, I suppose, is the lack of information from the ticket booth. Nobody offered us any guides, so we didn’t know if this option was even available. It was only as I’m writing this just now that I found out that you had to pay extra for one—but you’ll also get the full picture of the museum and palace. Other than that, the feel of this palace is so different from the first one. There were a lot of young employees—who I assume are interning uni students—who did practically nothing but fool around and laugh out loud. Can’t say it didn’t ruin the mood of the place.

With our trip pretty much wrapped up, we had a quick lunch near the hotel to pick up our bags. Afterwards, we went straight to the station as our time of departure is closing in. Our train departed at 6 PM and we arrived the next day at 2 AM. It was such a memorable trip and I felt the brunt of it for at least a week afterwards. A part of me wanted to move to Solo so badly, but I don’t know where to start. So here I am, reliving it all through these posts and—for more detailed accounts—travel journals. Now the trip has truly ended. Can’t say I’m not sad about it, but until next time Solo!

Stay tuned for more adventures that I’ll be embarking on soon!

thanks for reading